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Georgian windows are wonderfully generous with light, but they are also awkward customers. Sashes are tall and narrow, often six-over-six, set within deep reveals and topped by slender glazing bars that draw the eye upwards. A typical first-floor sash might measure 1.2 metres wide and 2.6 metres tall, and in grander rooms you may find three or more grouped together beneath a single heading. That height and proportion demand curtains with vertical movement, generous fullness and a heading sturdy enough to hold its shape under its own weight. Ready-made curtains, designed for modern two-metre windows, will nearly always look mean and stretched in comparison.
Height exaggerates everything. A lightweight fabric that looks charming on a cottage window can appear thin and papery when it hangs three metres down a Georgian wall, particularly when backlit by afternoon sun.
As a rule, allow at least two-and-a-half times the window width in fabric for pleated headings, and more if the fabric is light or the pleats are deep.
The heading is where a curtain either earns its keep or lets the whole scheme down. On a tall window you want structure and length of line.
A discreet pelmet or shaped valance can hide the track, add timber or fabric interest, and help a tall window feel properly dressed rather than simply covered.
Weight is the practical issue. Interlined curtains on a three-metre drop are heavy, and fixings must go into something solid — the masonry above the reveal or the lintel, not plasterboard. Where original shutters survive, work around them and keep curtains outside the recess so both can operate. Allow the pole or track to extend 15 to 20 centimetres either side of the window so the curtains stack clear of the glass when open. A 50mm wooden pole suits most Georgian rooms, with a good-quality corded track a sensible option where the rail is above comfortable reach. Where several sashes sit side by side, a single continuous heading reads better than separate pairs.
Drop is where period rooms come into their own. Floor-length curtains, finishing one to two centimetres above the floorboards, flatter tall proportions and block draughts. A longer break of 10 to 15 centimetres adds formality in drawing rooms but will mark and soil quickly. Sill-length curtains rarely work on a deep Georgian reveal — the proportions look truncated, especially with shutters behind. Measure from the underside of the pole or track to your chosen finish point, and take the measurement at three points, since old floors and ceilings are seldom level.
Think about how the room is actually used before you commit. Radiators beneath tall windows are common, and full-length curtains hanging over them will trap heat; a radiator shelf or a slightly shorter drop may serve better. Listed buildings or conservation areas may require consent for new fixings or external changes, so check before drilling into old joinery. Corded or motorised tracks make sense for very tall or hard-to-reach windows, and good tiebacks or holdbacks keep fabric clear of furniture. Finally, plan for cleaning: interlined curtains are best vacuumed gently or dry cleaned, and taking them down and rehanging them is a two-person job. Get the fabric, heading and fixing right at the outset, and a tall Georgian window becomes the most elegant feature in the house rather than the most troublesome.
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Period hallways are often narrow but full of potential. Use slim benches, wall hooks and under-stair cupboards to keep coats, shoes and bags organised.
Thomas A. Edison
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Shady borders can still be colourful and lush. Choose shade-tolerant perennials, ferns and bulbs that thrive under trees and beside north-facing walls.
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